Panicle hydrangea has many varieties, each of which finds its admirers. A beautiful flower can be grown in pots at home and in flowerpots or in flower beds in the open air. If you have a small plot of land and want to decorate it, hydrangea is the best suited for this. Read more about how to plant it.
Description of panicled hydrangea
Panicle hydrangea most often is a shrub, less often a low tree (up to 10 m). Her shoots are red-brown. Opposite leaves of elliptical shape grow on them. Their length is 5–15 cm. The surface of the sheet plate is embossed due to protruding veins.
If the bush grows in partial shade, then the leaves are dark green in color, in the sun - a little lighter. During the flowering period, it is covered by large cone-shaped inflorescences. Their length is 15–25 cm. They consist of a large number of small flowers (up to 25 mm), with bisexual flowers in the upper part, but for the most part they are sterile.
Inflorescences are also attracted in an undiluted form - a panicle collected from small round buds. From afar, it seems that the bush is strewn with small white beads. During flowering, swarms of insects gather over hydrangea. Heavy inflorescences bend down the branches, and the bush becomes like a magnificent ball. The flowering period in our latitudes lasts from mid-July to early September. The snow-white color of flowers gradually changes to pink-purple.
By autumn, the foliage also changes color, becomes yellow, and in some varieties purple. At the end of October, the pods ripen, crack and release winged seeds. The bush begins to bloom and bear fruit no earlier than the 4th – 5th year of life. The bush has a very branched root system. She goes far beyond the borders of the crown. At the same time, it is not deep.
Video: Panicled Hydrangea
What does panicle hydrangea love
He likes sunny areas, well protected from the wind. In partial shade it can grow, but then the inflorescences will be less saturated color. In addition, the number of inflorescences decreases and their size decreases. Prefers nutritious soil acid or neutral reaction. Loves moisture.
Planting dates in spring and autumn
The best time for planting is spring. Planted at the beginning of the season, the plant will have time to take root before the cold. The sooner it is planted, the better, the main thing is that there are appropriate temperature indicators.
Then there is a chance that hydrangea will please you with flowers this year. You can carry out planting work in the fall. The plant is frost-resistant, but still it must be covered for the winter.
Important! If you purchased a seedling in a container, then it can be planted in the summer.
Landing time is determined by the climate of the region:
- in warm climates you can plant a crop in September. The high temperature in autumn allows the seedlings to take root before the start of frost. Flowering should be expected next year.
- in temperate and colder climates, spring planting should be preferred. Bushes can be planted immediately after the end of the frost. The soil must be well warmed up.
Video: Planting panicle hydrangea
How to plant in open ground
It is very important to comply with the rules for planting panicle hydrangea so that the plant does not cause unnecessary trouble in the care.
Seat selection
It is necessary to plant a bush in a place where it is noon before noon, and after noon it is a shadow, or vice versa. The culture tolerates direct sunlight. Often, tender foliage gets burned.
Soil for plant
Suitable for hydrangea cultivation, the soil is loamy and with increased or neutral acidity. It must be nutritious and well-drained. The flower does not like stagnation of moisture, so when planting in a pit, you definitely need to pour small stones or expanded clay. If the site is clayey soil, then it can be mixed with sand, peat and soil from under coniferous plants.
Landing rules
Step-by-step description of the landing process:
- Dig a hole with sides of 30-50 cm.
- Mix the earth removed from the hole with sand, peat, and mineral organic fertilizers.
- If planting material with long roots, they should be shortened. If they dried up, then soak for a day in the “Kornevin."
- In the hole, form a mound of fertile soil and install a seedling on it, after straightening the root system.
- Fill the roots with soil, slightly raise the plant so that the soil fills the voids, ram it. The root neck should be at ground level.
- Water the bush, mulch the trunk circle with a five-centimeter layer of humus or peat.
- If planting was carried out in the spring, then it is recommended to cut annual shoots into 3-4 buds.
The distance between panicle hydrangeas during planting
When planting several plants at once, 1.4–2.4 meters should be left between them, depending on the variety. The nearest large shrubs and trees should be 2.3-3 meters away.
When planting in a row (hedge), you can dig a trench 90-100 cm wide. If it is necessary that the bush blooms earlier, then 70–80 cm should be left between the holes. After two or three years, if the plants are crowded, transplant them.
How to plant with a closed root system
Seedlings with a closed root system are very easy to plant. It is enough to moisten the soil in the pot and carefully extract the plant so that the earth does not crumble. The hole is prepared in advance according to the scheme described previously. The seedling is placed in the hole and sprinkled with earth on top. This landing can be done in the summer.
Flower care
Hydrangea is unpretentious in care. It is enough for her to observe elementary rules: timely watering, top dressing, pruning.
Video: Caring for panicle hydrangea
Watering
The shrub is very fond of moisture, so it must be watered twice a week. On one bush you need to spend about three buckets of water, provided that there has not been rain for a long time, and the soil is not covered with mulch.
Important! If you want panicle hydrangea flowers to acquire a bluish tint, then from spring to autumn you need to water the bush with water with 30 g of aluminum sulfate. Then the white color turns blue, and pink — purple.
Water should be used without chlorine, it is best that it be rain. When watering, you can not allow moisture to fall on the foliage and flowers, otherwise the decorativeness of the plant will be lost.
Top dressing
The nutrients introduced into the hole during planting will have enough flower for a year. Then it needs to be fed according to this scheme:
- As soon as the first shoots appear - complex mineral fertilizers according to the instructions.
- With the beginning of budding, potassium sulphide and superphosphate in a ratio of 7 to 4. This mixture in the amount of 100 g must be diluted in a bucket of water and water the plants.
- The end of August - infusion of mullein (pour manure with water and insist for a week, proportions - 1: 3, when used, dilute to 1 to 10).
Pruning
To preserve the decorative appearance of the bush, it must be trimmed. Manipulations can begin to be carried out from the 4th to 5th year of life. They will stimulate a riot of flowering and the formation of beautiful inflorescences.
Important! Also, using pruning, you can make a small tree out of the bush. Usually the procedure is carried out in the spring, as soon as the snow melts and the kidneys swell.
Formative pruning is carried out as follows:
- remove thin branches looking inward (cut “into a ring”);
- cut large shoots, leaving 2-3 kidneys (the cut should be transverse, above the kidney);
- remove damaged and diseased branches (if they are large, cut to the healthy part).
When rejuvenating pruning, 6-10 of the strongest branches are left, the rest are removed. You can cut all branches completely. In the first version, the plant is restored by the end of the season, but pruning must be done annually. In the second, the bush will be rejuvenated only by the next year, but it can be cut less often. It is not advisable to carry out manipulations in the autumn, since hydrangea then tolerates winter worse.
Did you know? The Japanese call hydrangea Adzisai, which means «purple sunny flower».
Loosening
At least three times per season, the ground under the bushes must be loosened so that a crust does not form, blocking the access of oxygen to the roots and interfering with the preservation of moisture in the soil. You need to loosen the 7 cm layer, covering the territory corresponding to the circumference with a radius of 60 cm. Together with loosening, weeds are destroyed.
Disease control
Hydrangea grown on a site where all the conditions necessary for normal growth are met are quite resistant to diseases. But still she is exposed to some misfortunes.
Gray rot
This disease is the most common for this culture. It develops in the summer with high air humidity and covers the leaf plates with spots that quickly increase in size. With increased air humidity, gray mycelium forms on top of the spots, which, when ripe, release spores that spread throughout the area.
White rot
Initially, the disease attacks the root system of the plant. Because of this, the bush loses its nutrients, gradually fades and eventually dies. The same methods are used to combat both types of rot.
At an early stage, you can use such drugs:
- "Fundazole";
- "Topsin M";
- "Purebloom";
- Bayleton.
You can use folk remedies. Mix 5 l of water with 500 g of fresh or 100 g of dry field horsetail and leave the mixture to infuse for 20–28 hours, then strain. Dilute the infusion with 20 liters of settled water before use. With this tool, you can spray or water the culture.
Did you know? There are types of hydrangeas in which the color of the petals depends on the pH of the soil. If this indicator is below 7 (acidic), then they are with a blue tint, if higher (alkaline) — with pink or purple.
White spotting
Another fungal disease that covers the leaves with dark spots (brown, red, brick). Spots are not rounded and spread randomly. Also, color loss of the sheet plate occurs.The treatment of the disease is complex: first you need to remove and burn the diseased parts of the plant, then disinfect the soil under the bush. For this purpose, you can use copper sulfate, Fitosporin, Bordeaux liquid, Baikal.
From green, it changes color to yellow. Gradually, the foliage dies and falls. The fungus can also spread to the branches. Active propagation and spread of the fungus is possible in a humid and hot environment.
Rust
This fungal ailment develops with neglected plantings, when hydrangeas do not have enough free space. Also, an excess of nitrogen in the soil can provoke its development. Leaf plates are covered with red coating. Initially, it may be a pink hue.
At the initial stage of the disease, the Avito solution is effective. It normalizes the concentration of nitrogen in the soil and establishes metabolic processes. In severe cases, it is necessary to use such means as "Rayek", "Skor", "Falcon", "Topaz".
Breeding methods
Basically, all plants reproduce by seed and vegetative methods. Unfortunately, panicle hydrangea seeds do not ripen well in the middle lane, and sprouting ability is retained for no more than a month. Because of this, the vegetative method is used for propagation.
Cuttings
Harvesting cuttings can be carried out in spring and summer. The harvesting time affects the planting process of the cuttings. In the spring, before the start of sap flow, planting material can be obtained from the residues after pruning. Such cuttings are cut at an angle so that each has at least two buds. Billets are planted in peat or sand at an angle of 60 °. The lower kidney should be deepened by 3 cm. Seedlings must be well watered, covered with a spanbond and placed in a greenhouse. In the open ground, such cuttings can be planted next year in the spring.
Summer cuttings are more difficult to root, since during this period there is little moisture in the plant tissues. It is best to carry out the harvesting from June 10 to June 15. The stalk should be 10 cm long. It can be harvested from young shoots that do not have flower buds. The shoot is cut off with the heel. The slice is treated with Kornevin.
The lower leaves on the workpiece are removed, and the upper ones are cut in half. The cutlery is placed in the Fundazole solution for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, the tank is filled with a mixture of peat and sand, where the workpiece is planted. The seedling is covered with a jar or a plastic bottle.
It must be watered twice a week for a month. During this time, the cuttings must take root, and the shelter can be removed. For winter, seedlings are sent to a room with a low temperature. A young bush is planted in a permanent place at the end of the summer of next year.
Layering
To preserve the unique properties of the culture, it can be propagated by layering. To do this, in the spring, before the buds appear, you need to select a young branch on the bush, bend it to the ground and fix it with braces. A little need to be deepened into the soil and sprinkled with a nutrient mixture. The aboveground part should be tied to the support so that it assumes a vertical position.
Until August, young shoots will appear on the lay. Once they reach a size of 15–20 cm, they need to be earthed up at intervals of a week and a half. Manipulations should be repeated until the hill reaches a height of 20–25 cm. If the hilling procedure is carried out correctly, then the next year the young plant will be ready to transplant to a new place.
Winter preparations
Panicled hydrangea calmly undergoes a drop in temperature to -30 ... -40 ° C. But only adult, healthy, rooted plants can calmly recover after a harsh winter. If the bush was sick shortly before the onset of cold weather or was transplanted to a new place, then it must be covered for the winter.
Young plants can be bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches. Mulch the soil beneath them. In adult shrubs, the branches are fragile, so they need to be tied together and tied to a support. Stretch the spunbond from above and lay the spruce branch. Cover the trunk circle with a layer of mulch.1- tilted shoots, 2 -cocking, 3- spruce branches, 4- lutrasil, 5- stone
Caring for panicle hydrangea is not difficult. She does not create unnecessary trouble, but only pleases the eye with a riot of color.