Shchedrik hybrid cucumbers are of interest to many vegetable growers - the variety really has many positive characteristics, including the taste of the fruit. Learn more about the positive qualities of the hybrid and the rules for growing it.
Important! Cucumbers should not be frozen and kept close to the freezer - they will become soft and quickly deteriorate.
Variety characteristic Shchedryk
When buying the seeds of Shchedryk cucumbers, gardeners first of all pay attention to the description of fruits, bushes and crop yields. Resistance to diseases and pests is also important. Thanks to the characteristics given below, the hybrid quickly became popular among vegetable growers.
Fruit Description
The fruits of the Shchedryk variety have the following parameters:
- the shape is cylindrical;
- color - dark green with pale stripes;
- peel - strong, with densely located tubercles;
- the diameter of the cucumber is 3-5 cm;
- length - 10-12 cm;
- weight - 90–110 cm;
- pulp - thick, few seeds;
- the taste is sweet, without bitterness.
Description of the bushes
Bushes are moderately wicker, indeterminate. Parthenocarpic pollination, female flowers. The ovaries are arranged in a bouquet type, in one leaf sinus 5-8 ovaries.
Fruitfulness
Hybrid Shchedryk F1 bears fruit early. The yield is plentiful - gardeners usually harvest 5.5-7 kg of crop from one bush.
Important! The proximity of groundwater is not allowed.
Disease and pest resistance
Schedrik cucumbers are resistant to a number of common diseases, including:
- powdery mildew;
- downy mildew;
- root rot.
Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
Shchedryk cucumbers have both advantages and disadvantages, however the first ones are much larger.
- Advantages of the Shchedrik cucumber variety:
- early ripening;
- self-pollination;
- resistance to certain diseases;
- the possibility of landing in open and closed ground;
- high productivity;
- lack of bitterness in the fruits;
- keeping quality;
- transportability;
- universal application.
The only drawback of the variety is that in the heat above + 25 ° C empty flowers can form. By growing in a greenhouse and controlling the temperature, problems can be avoided.
Optimal landing times
Planting dates vary when growing seedlings and when sowing seeds in the ground. Seeds for seedlings should be sown in late April. Directly in the greenhouse, sowing is carried out in mid-May.
Did you know? In many cities of the world there are monuments to cucumber. Among the most popular are monuments in Nizhyn, Stary Oskol and Poznan.
Planting and growing varieties
The variety is intended for planting in greenhouses, however, cultivation in open ground is also permissible. There are two possible ways of planting: through growing seedlings and sowing directly into the ground. Each of them has pros and cons.
Seed directly into the ground
To plant cucumbers, choose a place:
- no shading;
- closed from drafts;
- remote from the swamps;
- with loose soil of medium loaminess.
- Good predecessors for culture:
- early white cabbage;
- garlic;
- legumes;
- bow;
- cauliflower.
- Worst of all, cucumbers will grow after:
- late and middle white cabbage;
- Tomatoes
- carrots;
- pepper;
- turnips;
- eggplant.
In the autumn, dig the soil and spread manure before the first frost. Such preparation will make the soil more fertile. Prepare the seeds in spring. Prepare in 3 stages:
- Calibration Soak the seeds for 6 hours in water, remove the pop-up grains.
- Disinfection. For 1 hour, place the material in a 1% potassium permanganate solution.
- Hardening. After calibration and decontamination, dry the seeds in the refrigerator for 3 days.
Sow the seeds according to one of the following schemes:
- 0.5 m between the holes and 0.5 m between the rows when planting by a nesting method;
- 10 cm between seeds and 0.6 m between rows when planting in rows.
Video: planting cucumber seeds in open ground
Growing seedlings
Seedlings are more laborious than sowing seeds directly into the ground. However, this method has an undeniable plus - seedlings are quickly rooted and grow, while the seeds still have to germinate in the ground. For northern gardeners, this is the most acceptable option, since seeds in cold conditions often do not germinate at all. Before sowing, you need to prepare the soil, seeds and containers.
Priming. For sowing seeds for seedlings, prepare a fertile substrate. You can purchase a universal soil mixture, which already has all the necessary components. However, it is easy to prepare the soil yourself, by mixing:
- peat land (2 parts);
- humus (2 parts);
- rotted sawdust (1 part).
For better fertility, add:
- 200 ml of ash;
- 1 tsp potassium sulfate;
- 1 part superphosphate;
- 1 tsp. Urea.
Seeds. Calibrate the seeds before sowing. To do this, soak the material for 5-6 hours in water at room temperature. Floated grains are unsuitable for planting. The next step is to harden the seeds. Place them in the refrigerator for 3 days: the procedure will make the grains resistant to temperature changes. Seeds will germinate faster if placed in wet gauze and left to lie at a temperature of +22 ... + 27 ° С. After a few days, sprouts will hatch from the seeds. When the length reaches 0.5–1 cm, they can be sown.
Capacities. Prepare individual containers for planting. Suitable plastic half-liter cups, cut-off tetrapack bags or pots.
Did you know? The nineteenth-century British inventor George Stephenson, the creator of one of the first steam locomotives, invented the so-called "cucumber glass" - a cylinder made of glass. It was put on the fruits, so that they grew perfectly straight.
The sowing technology is as follows:
- Fill containers with substrate.
- Spray the mixture with warm water from the spray gun.
- Pit 2 cm deep in the center of the containers.
- Pit the seeds.
- Fill the recesses with a substrate.
Cover the crops with plastic wrap and keep at a temperature of + 28 ° C. Periodically remove cover and spray soil from a spray bottle. When the shoots appear, remove the film and move the seedlings to the windowsill. Before transplanting to a permanent place, moisten the soil as it dries. 10-14 days before transplantation, begin hardening of seedlings.
On the first day, take the containers outside for 1 hour. Then, every day, increase the time spent by seedlings on the street by 1–1.5 hours. The term for planting seedlings at a permanent place: late May - early June. Plant cucumbers according to the pattern of 0.5 m between the holes and 0.5 m between the rows.
Video: sowing cucumbers for seedlings
Variety Care Features
The key to successful cultural growth is proper care. For cucumbers, watering, top dressing, garter, bush formation and soil care are important.
Watering and fertilizing
Two of the most important factors in planting care are watering and top dressing. The best method for moistening the soil is irrigation from a watering can under a bush. The beds should be watered every 2-3 days; in the heat daily watering is allowed. It is best to moisten the soil in the morning or in the evening when exposure to sunlight is ruled out. In order not to overcool the soil, use water no colder than + 23 ° C. Cucumbers well perceive root fertilizers.
Add top dressing as follows:
- 2 weeks after planting. The bush needs to gain green mass - nitrogen fertilizers will help him in this. Use chicken droppings (500 ml per bucket of water) or ammofosku (1 tbsp. Per bucket of water).
- At the beginning of flowering. Introduce complex mineral fertilizing. In a bucket of water, stir 20 g of potassium nitrate, 30 g of ammonium nitrate and 40 g of superphosphate.
- At the beginning of fruiting. In a bucket of water, stir 50 g of urea and 25 g of potassium nitrate. Pour the beds with a ready-made solution.
- 2 weeks after the start of bearing. Feed the bushes with a urea solution at the rate of 15 g of substance per bucket of water.
Garter and bush formation
To avoid thickening of the plantings and to ensure their saturation with oxygen, the bush must be tied up. The lashes are best tied up to the trellis. It is advisable to form a bush in one stem - so the fruits are fully saturated with nutrients.
Soil care
Soil care is an integral part of cucumber bush care. After each watering, loosen the ground so that when it dries, it does not take up the crust. Remove weeds as they appear. To retain moisture in the soil, beds can be mulched. As a mulch, use natural materials - leaves, coniferous branches, straw.
Possible difficulties growing varieties
In general, the variety is disease resistant: the plant is not affected by powdery mildew, downy powdery mildew and root rot. To the other diseases, in particular fungal, the hybrid has relative resistance, so they are practically not found on the bushes. To completely eliminate the appearance of the fungus, farmers twice during the growing season process the plantings with fungicides. Among the effective drugs are Kuproksat and Kvadris. The variety is susceptible to attack by pests.
The most dangerous parasites:
The first step is to remove pests from leaves and stems with a soap solution. For the final elimination of insects, treat the plantings with an insecticide, for example, Actellik.
Features of harvesting and storage of crops
Harvested gradually from June to August. Remove cucumbers regularly so as not to inhibit fruiting. Store vegetables at a temperature of +3 ... + 6 ° C - for example, in the vegetable compartment in the refrigerator or in the cellar. The environment should be moist - dampness partially causes the development of the fungus. Thus, farmers knowingly leave a lot of positive reviews about the Shchedryk hybrid. Subject to agricultural standards, the fruits removed from the beds meet all expectations.
